Brioso Ristorante

Brioso is the dressed-up dinner of New Dorp Lane. It belongs to the DiMaggio brothers, Sicilians who cooked in Manhattan dining rooms such as Elio's and Petaluma before opening their first Brioso in Marlboro, New Jersey; the Staten Island restaurant followed in the 1990s, a short walk from the New Dorp station. The family's starting point is the Sicilian cooking they grew up with.

After a renovation the brothers brought in an Italian-trained chef, Francesco Angelucci, who worked in London under Giorgio Locatelli, and the menu gained handmade pastas — black-ink tagliatelle with seafood, chitarra with wild boar ragù — some finished tableside in a wheel of Parmesan. Fried zucchini flowers are the appetizer regulars ask for; among mains, look for oxtail vaccinara, the Roman braise, and whole roasted duck with orange. Specials change with the season, and there are separate lunch and private-occasion menus.