Jaew Hon

Up a flight of stairs at 71-30 Roosevelt Avenue, two doors from Sushi on Me, Jaew Hon serves the hot pot of Isan, Thailand's northeast. The namesake broth is herbal and cloudy, built on a dense spice paste, and most tables split the pot with tom zap, a broth that is sour and very hot. Thin-sliced meats, seafood and glass noodles go in at the table, with greens and mushrooms from a self-serve station.

Dinner is all-you-can-eat at a set price, and the room holds only a handful of tables, so it is close, steamy and loud — the kind of shared meal that works best on a cold night for two. Regulars insist on the garlic fried rice and on the dipping sauces, especially nam jim jaew, the toasted-chili sauce that gives the restaurant part of its name. Listings report that it is cash only and adds an automatic gratuity, so come prepared.