La Fusta

La Fusta — the name means riding crop — has been grilling beef the Argentine way on Baxter Avenue since 1970, by the restaurant's own account, through decades in which most of the neighborhood around it changed hands. The equestrian theme runs through the room, and the business has always been a family one: Time Out once described a patriarch known as El Tata, his son Gaspar, and a floor staff of relatives and long-serving waiters.

Start with the house-made empanadas, then order the entraña, a skirt steak with a deep char, or a parrillada, the mixed grill of steak, sausages and offal brought to the table to share, with a bottle of malbec. Lunch is a simpler plate with sides; dinner adds more cuts and combination platters, and there is pasta for anyone at the table who would rather skip the grill. It is an old-fashioned, unhurried place — the kind of room for an anniversary dinner that runs long.