La Palina

La Palina is a family-run Neapolitan-American dining room on Avenue O, at the eastern end of Bensonhurst near the Gravesend line, and one of the longest-running Italian restaurants in this part of Brooklyn — listings trace the business to 1930. When the nearby Fiorentino's closed in 2016, the local paper sent its regulars here. It looks and feels like the neighborhood places Bensonhurst built its reputation on, and toasted garlic bread lands on every table before you've ordered.

Baked clams are the house reputation, with shrimp oreganata and chicken scarpariello close behind. Fill out the table with baked ziti and veal, or keep it simple with spaghetti and meatballs alongside a chicken parmigiana, all in the red sauce regulars come back for. The room fills quickly, especially on weekends, and service is relaxed rather than brisk, so call ahead, settle in and plan on a long dinner.