Liebman's Deli

When Joe Liebman opened his delicatessen on West 235th Street in 1953, the Bronx had close to a hundred kosher delis. Today Liebman's is the last one standing. The Dekel family bought it in 1980, and Yuval Dekel has run it since 2002 — a former heavy-metal drummer who now cures the pastrami. The room has barely moved: Formica tables, green booths, a counter case of knishes and pickles, and the menu that has fed Riverdale for seven decades.

Order hot pastrami on rye, cut thick, and a bowl of matzo ball soup; the corned beef is cured for three weeks, and the braised brisket comes with horseradish sauce. Stuffed derma and knishes are here for anyone who remembers them. Because it is kosher, there is no cheese on the meat and no milk in the coffee — that is the point. Anthony Bourdain filmed here for Parts Unknown.