Marisquería Veracruz

On Port Richmond Avenue, the commercial spine of Staten Island's Mexican community, this truck runs a Veracruz-style seafood kitchen with a Vietnamese side. It has typically parked on Staten Island on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and spent the rest of the week in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, so check its social media before you make the trip.

Order the ceviche mixto, served in a clear plastic cup with plenty of lime, and an aguachile if you like heat. Then the crossover dishes: a bowl of phở, or a sandwich that splits the difference between a torta and a bánh mì, with fried fish or pork belly. Finish with a doughnut filled with rice pudding, and eat it all on the spot. Make it part of a walk along the avenue, where Mexican bakeries, taquerías and groceries line the blocks toward the water.