Noreetuh

Hawaiian food is already a fusion — Japanese, Korean, Filipino, Portuguese and Native Hawaiian kitchens folded into one plate lunch — and Noreetuh cooks it with real care. The First Avenue room is small and easy, and the wine list is far more serious than a poke bowl would lead you to expect.

Start with musubi — the classic SPAM, or a dressed-up version with galbi, scallop or unagi — and a big-eye tuna poke. Mochiko fried chicken, crisp with rice flour, and mentaiko spaghetti are the dishes regulars return for. Weekend brunch is a pleasure, and the cellar list rewards anyone who asks the staff for a bottle.