Tsukimi

Tsukimi means moon viewing — the autumn harvest festival held under the full moon — and the twelve-seat East Village counter takes the idea literally: soft arches, mirrored panels and shelves of ceramics lit from within, all glowing like a moonlit room. Chef Takanori Akiyama, from a family of sushi chefs in Miyazaki, trained in kaiseki in Tokyo and opened it in 2019. It holds a Michelin star.

The tasting course is a modern kaiseki that changes with the season and sometimes by the day; one sequence served to all twelve guests at once. Karen Lin, the co-owner and a certified sake sommelier, runs a sake list worth exploring, with sake or mixed pairings on offer. Ask about dietary limits before you book — the menu cannot be changed much.