Rincón Melania

The name means Melania's corner, after the family matriarch, and her children run the room — bright, small, a few stuffed alpacas keeping watch as unofficial mascots. Western Queens has one of the largest Ecuadorian communities in the country, and this spot under the 7 train is where a lot of people send visitors first.

Start with the ceviche mixto, a generous pile of well-marinated shrimp, fish and octopus. Then a bolón — a fist-sized ball of mashed green plantain with cheese — and seco de chivo, the slow-stewed goat that Ecuadorian families save for Sundays. Encebollado, the tuna-and-yuca soup Ecuador swears by for mornings after, is there when you need it, along with yapingachos and chaulafán.