Yoshino

Tadashi "Edowan" Yoshida ran his father's sushi bar in Gifu and then a celebrated counter in Nagoya before bringing it to the Bowery. The restaurant is named for the town in Nara where his father was born, and the details are obsessive: a hinoki counter cut from a three-hundred-year-old tree, handmade chairs, knives forged by a master in Saga. It holds a Michelin star.

Two omakase seatings a night run through a long series of cooked dishes before the nigiri, and the chef performs them — lean in when the saba maki, his signature, sizzles over the flame. Business casual, no hats, and guests must be sixteen or older.