Atera

A dark, sleek Tribeca room built around a wide U-shaped counter, where the cooks work in front of you and the soundtrack is looser than the food. Atera holds two Michelin stars, and for twelve years its kitchen has been led by the Danish chef Ronny Emborg; the restaurant has announced that he will stay through December, calling this autumn his extended final season.

The single tasting menu changes continuously and roams the world for ideas — Hokkaido scallop, halibut with peekytoe crab — in small, precise courses. A wine pairing is offered, and there is a full bottle list. It is the most relaxed of the city's top counters.