Calabria Pork Store

Look up as you walk in. Hundreds of dry sausages hang from the ceiling of this narrow shop on Arthur Avenue, curing in rows so dense that the shop itself calls it the sausage chandelier. It is the last old-style salumeria on the avenue, and the smell of curing pork meets you at the door. The Di Rende family, also behind Enzo's of Arthur Avenue across the street, has long been tied to the place.

The house specialty is the dry sausage, sweet or hot, with fennel seed or with garlic and wine, sold by the stick. Soppressata comes in several heat levels, and the counter also cuts capocollo, prosciutto, pancetta and guanciale, plus cheese and olives. If you want lunch rather than groceries, ask for hot soppressata on ciabatta or a hero with provolone. Buy a stick or two for the trip home; dry sausage travels well.