Joe's Italian Deli

Giuseppe and Maria Ruscigno opened a small shop in the Bronx's Little Italy at the end of the 1970s, and about a decade later moved Joe's into its current storefront on East 187th Street, three times the size of the first. Their son Anthony now runs it alongside them. The shelves hold imported pasta, oils and sweets, but the counter is the point: cheeses hand-cut to order, salumi, and trays of hot food that start cooking early so they are ready by lunch.

Joe has made fresh mozzarella since he was nineteen, and you will likely be handed a piece before you order. The sandwiches have names worth reading aloud: The Strongest stacks breaded chicken, fried eggplant, prosciutto, fresh mozzarella and roasted peppers; Nick's Burner goes hot soppressata, hot capicola and hot peppers. Expect samples, a short wait at busy times, and a heavy bag on the way out.