Frena

For almost two decades this corner of Tenth Avenue was Taboon, a Moroccan-Israeli restaurant built around its clay oven. A fire closed Taboon for good in 2021, but the oven survived it, and Frena is the second act: a modern Middle Eastern room of vines and soft pink light where nearly everything passes through the fire.

Start with the Frena bread, a flatbread brushed with olive oil, Maldon salt, rosemary and sage, and a few dips for the table. The lamb terra cotta, Colorado lamb kebabs baked in a clay pot, is the house's signature. Weekend brunch is shakshuka in seven versions, from the classic to merguez and halloumi, each with a Jerusalem bagel stick for dipping. Finish with malabi or knafeh with rose syrup.