Gallaghers Steakhouse

Opened in 1927 by a former Ziegfeld girl as one of the city's early Prohibition speakeasies, Gallaghers still announces itself through the front window: a meat locker of dry-aging porterhouses with handwritten tags. Inside, the walls are covered with jockeys, thoroughbreds and ballplayers, and the Rat Pack plays softly while very stiff drinks arrive.

Order the classics, all of them. Start with a Hemingway daiquiri, a wedge salad and clams casino; then the porterhouse for two or the bone-in rib steak, grilled over hickory, with creamed spinach and the house steak sauce. End with the cheesecake. It is the old New York steakhouse done without irony, steps from the theaters.