Tanoreen

Rawia Bishara has been cooking the food of her Nazareth childhood on Third Avenue since 1998, and the meal still opens the way a Palestinian home meal does: a dish of bright pickles, flatbread dusted with za'atar, and an argument about how much to order. The so-called Turkish salad — a brick-red spread of tomato, harissa and cucumber — goes fast. Grape leaves, fatteh and the eggplant dishes follow.

The dish to plan around is the mansaf, lamb braised in tangy fermented-yogurt sauce and spooned over rice, the celebration plate of Palestine and Jordan both. It is generous, sour, rich and best shared across a full table. The Michelin Guide has kept Tanoreen on its Bib Gourmand list for years, but the room remains a neighborhood restaurant first, full of Bay Ridge families on a Sunday.