Taqueria El Gallo Azteca

Just up from the waterfront, where Victory Boulevard starts its long climb across the island, this counter-service taqueria makes tacos so big that one is closer to a meal than a snack. A large pot of pork simmers behind the register, cartoon avocados decorate the walls, and the prices are from another era. It has been here on Victory Boulevard since at least 2007, when local food writers were already sending taco hunters to it.

Order carnitas and al pastor: the meat comes out of the pot and onto the griddle for a crisp edge before it goes into the tortilla. The torta Cubana, layered with several meats, is a project best shared. Take one of the tables rather than eating standing up — these tacos need both hands — and bring cash to be safe.