Berikoni Bakery & Georgian House

At the quiet western end of Brighton Beach Avenue, a block from the boardwalk, a family from Tbilisi opened Berikoni Georgian Bakery in 2012 and, within a year, a full-service restaurant, Georgian House, beside it. The menus are printed in English and Russian, but the recipes are Georgian, and on weekends locals line up for slices of cake and still-warm cheese bread to carry home or eat at the next table.

The breads are the draw. Imeruli is the round, cheese-filled khachapuri of western Georgia; penovani is the flaky, layered version, puff pastry folded around salty cheese. At the restaurant, add khinkali — the twisted, broth-filled dumplings that sell as fast as the khachapuri — a plate of shashlik and a salad, and finish with a slice from the bakery case. It is an easy stop on the way to or from the beach.