Vis-à-Vis

Ocean Parkway ends where Brighton Beach begins, and right there, on the boardwalk, Vis-à-Vis carries on the tradition of the Russian restaurant as a place to celebrate. It calls itself a restaurant and lounge serving authentic Russian cuisine, and it runs on two speeds: daytime and brunch tables with the beach and the boards just outside, and weekend nights when live music starts late and the room turns into a party.

The format is the classic Brighton one. Order à la carte — cold appetizers and salads, soups, fish and meat entrées, a raw bar — or book one of the fixed banquet menus, which arrive in waves of zakuski and hot dishes for a whole table, with the vodka and cocktails to match. Birthdays, anniversaries and family milestones are the house specialty. Come for a sunset dinner by the boardwalk, or come late on a Friday or Saturday for the music.