Jua

A long, loft-like room near Gramercy where a wood-burning grill sets the mood: you smell it from the door. Chef Hoyoung Kim spent eight years at Jungsik, rising from line cook to executive chef, before opening Jua, named for his daughter. It holds a Michelin star.

The menu is a seven-course Korean tasting built on live fire — chilled mulhoe in a spicy broth, crisp-skinned dry-aged fish, wood-grilled meats — with desserts that rework Korean traditions. A jook course can be upgraded with abalone, and seven courses keep the evening to about two hours.