Le Veau d'Or

Le Veau d'Or opened in 1937, fed Orson Welles and Audrey Hepburn, and closed in 2019. Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr — the chefs behind Frenchette, and before that Balthazar and Minetta Tavern — brought it back, and the little room is once again a destination: red banquettes, gingham tablecloths, calf-shaped porcelain vases, a mirrored map of France catching the lamplight. No table seats more than four.

Dinner is a prix fixe: an appetizer, a main and a dessert each, with a green salad for the table before dessert. The pâté en croûte, the frogs' legs sizzling in garlic butter, and the poulet à l'estragon in its unapologetically buttery tarragon sauce are the greatest hits; pommes soufflées with caviar if it's that kind of night, warm gratin au chocolat to finish.