Odo

Walk into Hall, a cocktail bar on West 20th Street, and ask the host for Odo: the kaiseki counter is hidden behind it, closed off from the noise. Hiroki Odo trained at Wakuden in Kyoto and won a star at Kajitsu before opening his own place in 2018; Odo has held two Michelin stars since 2023.

Kaiseki is a meal governed by rules, each course defined by a cooking method — sashimi, a grilled dish, simmered vegetables, rice with miso soup and pickles, fruit to finish — and Odo follows the form with a light, personal touch. House-made soba often appears. Dinner runs eight or nine courses at two seatings; a shorter six-course lunch is served too.