Tlayuda Oaxaqueña Sr. San Pablo

Step off the 7 train at 103rd Street and the smell of masa and grilling meat comes up the stairs to meet you. Corona Plaza below is a market of carts and tents, Mexican and Ecuadorian, and this one — a plastic-stool operation in the shadow of the tracks — is where to begin.

The tlayuda is the reason: a disc of fresh masa as wide as a steering wheel, griddled until crisp, then spread with beans and cheese and piled with whatever meats you choose. It is folded in half to eat and easily feeds two. Afterward, walk the plaza for an agua fresca and something sweet.