Antojitos Doña Fela

Felicitas Vargas — Doña Fela — came from Arequipa, noticed that New York's street food had almost nothing Peruvian, and opened a cart in 2005. She runs it with her daughters and granddaughter on the corner of Roosevelt and 90th, on weekends, and it feels like a family kitchen that happens to be on the sidewalk.

Mornings are for tamales, chicharrón and relleno; later come the home-style stews — arroz con pollo, seco de gallina, cau cau and chanfainita, a beef-lung stew with potatoes and panca chili. Order whatever is in the pot, in Spanish if you can, and eat it under the 7 train.