Pique y Pase Pepin

On Warren Street, just off Roosevelt Avenue by the Junction Boulevard station, a short row of Ecuadorian trucks parks nose to tail with folding tables on the sidewalk. On a warm weekend the block feels a little like a street fair, with families at the tables and plates being passed over shoulders.

At Pique y Pase Pepin, order the hornado — roast pork with crackling skin — or the costillas asadas, grilled ribs over a bed of deeply savory lentils. Portions are generous and the staff are patient with rusty Spanish. If the seats are full, do as the regulars do and eat standing; El Rincón Guayaquileño, a few trucks down, is worth a second visit.