Al-Aqsa Restaurant

Starling Avenue is the spine of Parkchester's Bangla Bazaar, and Al-Aqsa is one of its busiest kitchens — especially in the evening and during Ramadan, when families come in for iftar. It is a steam-table restaurant: you point at what looks good in the long display counter, and it lands on your plate. The cooking is Bangladeshi first, with Indian and a few continental dishes alongside, and everything is halal.

The trays change through the day, but look for ruhi fish curry, beef tehari — the Dhaka-style spiced rice with beef — chili chicken, goat curry and beef kala bhuna. When a fresh tray of samosas comes out of the kitchen, get a couple, with the cilantro-mint chutney, and finish with a cold mango lassi. It is cheap, filling, and as close to a home meal in Bangladesh as the Bronx offers.