Taqueria Tlaxcalli

On Starling Avenue, among the Bangladeshi groceries and sweet shops of Parkchester's Bangla Bazaar, Taqueria Tlaxcalli has been cooking Mexico City-style food since 2006. The name is the Nahuatl word for tortilla. The family behind it has roots in Mexico City and Honduras, and the room is bright with papel picado over a long open kitchen.

The burritos are the reason most people come — enormous, tightly rolled, stuffed with rice, black beans and your choice of al pastor, tinga, carnitas or birria, and sturdy enough to be deep-fried into a chimichanga. Beyond them, the platillos go deeper: a molcajete of cactus, chorizo and quesillo in guajillo or tomatillo salsa, or a steak albañil with grilled cactus and cebollines. Add a strawberry limeade, and share. The kitchen opens early with a full breakfast menu, and the family also books the room for private parties and caters.