Delmar Pizzeria

Delmar has been making pies on Sheepshead Bay Road since the late 1950s, a couple of minutes' walk from the Sheepshead Bay subway station. Hurricane Sandy closed it in 2012; it was rebuilt and reopened the next spring with its old-school feel intact — murals on the walls, a vintage menu on display, and a brick front that hasn't tried to look new. The shop has long claimed to be the first in New York to sell a sauceless white pizza, a boast nobody can quite settle, but a good reason to order one.

That white pie comes with dollops of ricotta sunk into melted mozzarella and no tomato at all. The grandma slice, crisp at the edges, is the regulars' other order, and the plain cheese slice carries an herby, savory sauce worth tasting on its own. The menu runs on to heroes, parmigiana and baked pastas if you'd rather sit down to a full meal, and a slice eaten on the walk down to the boats on Emmons Avenue is never a bad idea.