Kosaka

A Tokyo-style Edomae sushi-ya on a quiet stretch of West 13th Street: a twelve-seat counter, a few tables, soft piano in the background. Head chef Masatomo Soma spent thirty years under Yoshihiko Kousaka before taking over the counter, and the restaurant holds a Michelin star.

The omakase opens with seasonal otsumami and sashimi, then a sushi course chosen from the day's market, soup and dessert. The fish is barely dressed — a shiso leaf or a dab of yuzu kosho tucked under a slice — and supplements such as king crab and ankimo can be added. Sit at the counter if you can.