Kubeh

Kubeh is named for the dumpling soup that Kurdish, Iraqi and Syrian Jewish families carried to Israel, and that Jerusalem still eats on Friday afternoons. Chef Melanie Shurka learned to roll them from immigrant cooks there, and the menu works like a building kit: choose a kubeh — the Kurdish siske stuffed with beef, a mushroom version — and match it to a broth, from selek, deep red with beets, to hamusta, sharp with lemon and chard.

Around the soups, the cooking stays in the same Middle Eastern home kitchen: kuku sabzi, the Persian herb frittata; roasted eggplant under tahini; baklava and a Turkish-coffee ice cream to finish. It is the nearest thing Manhattan has to a kubbeh house, and a good answer for anyone looking for Kurdish or Iraqi Jewish flavors.