Le Chêne

A low-ceilinged West Village bijou from Alexia and Ronan Duchêne, with tables huddled close, Basquiat prints and Warhol flowers on the walls, and a curved horseshoe bar up front. The wine list runs to dozens of pages and thousands of bottles, which tells you where the evening is headed.

The cooking is rich, old-school French: foie gras terrines, vin jaune sauces, and a carved, bronzed pithivier that makes the whole room turn when it leaves the kitchen. For a lighter night, sit at the bar, split a bottle, and order a few small plates — the green beans with tarragon yogurt if they are on — plus the very good bread and butter.